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Here trying to get to the point where I can see mistakes happening in the moment and not after the job is done. ❤ great job explaining things guys!

I love your videos Question with the guide code If you're fixing a low spot with More primer or filler does all the guidecoat have to come off Before adding more filler or primer Thank you

Hey Travis can you touch on dye back in the clear. I soray in an open environment and deal with dye back all the time. I have yet to overcome it but would love to see what input you have. When i spend countless hours getting a panel totally flat, it looks wet and slick while i paint, then is looks semi gloss at best when im back in the shop the next day. Ig sux when this happens

I’m a professional welder .. just fyi that’s not proper welding. Trying to build up the fillet size to look pretty will lack root fusion and most likely be too cold. Ideal mig welding you should be looking to spray arc and more runs

Another great video.

we dont have very many places here to acid dip . the insurance is absolutley over the cost of reason because most places have caught on fire and dont bother reopening.. same goes with rechroming.even radiator shops wont clean a a gas tank. so manual stripping is the way to go. sandblasting is to expensive

Great info thanks

For the home DIYer here in Cali, it used to be so easy to strip a car with a chemical stripper. None of them work anymore like they did 25-30 years ago. My old 50 F1, I am doing it all by hand using a DA and Eastwoods Contour. Enjoy your videos and tips.

Great instructions, this answered many questions I had

What advice would you give if someone had applied WD40.

I would like to know how you finish the edges of doors hoods etc after you block it out. The filler connecting the panels are straight but seams have a rounded edge. How do I recreate that? Tia

Great video I wish it was around 30 years ago 😂😅I strip a car down, the entire car to the bare metal and then I’ll treat it with metal prep 69. I spray it on there with a pump up sprayer maybe 2’x2’, let it dwell till it starts to dry a bit and I wipe it off firmly and quickly with paper towel, a lot of them. I t won’t rust for an easy month or two. Can’t let anybody touch it if I notice any kind of rust coming in, I’ll just wipe it down again(That’s in a closed shop) humidity in my shop today is about 64%.

Thank you so much. You guys are awesome. Thanks for the lesson😊

this is gold!

Can you use 20% refused epoxy primer for sealer

First paint job what you think about using PPG mp171 epoxy primer Bondo and ppgmp282 polyester 2 k primer also what product you use to wipe the Bondo dust I don't think I should use wax grease remover over Bondo

exactly! if you want to slow down and make your puddle stack, you can't use the auto settings (like Miller has) Those auto-sets are designed for a fast weld, you can't be working back into the puddle. Adjusting my hood so i can see made a huge difference for me. Help for uphill welds please - specifically how to spot when you're too hot/ cold.

WD "It's got water in it". Its a Water Dispersing agent, I can guarantee there isn't any water on WD40. If the base weld metal is shiny clean, welder and gas settings have been set up on a test plate there will be little or no spatter. The best way to establish welder the best settings is to do test plates. Too much gas is expensive, especially here in the UK where a large bottle of gas will set you back roughly £120 ($150) plus tax and not including bottle rental. Another important consideration for getting the perfect weld is comfort. Do a "dry run" and effectivelydo the weld without pulling the trigger. This will show you if you are in the right position to complete the weld comfortably or if you run into a physically uncomfortable position and cannot maintain the right distance or technique.

What about soda blasting?

Very very good ...

Love the video! I’ve been wanting to take both Ken’s and Wray’s classes they offer for metal finishing and so on. Both are super skilled. My finances on the other hand are lack luster, so I’ve had to learn metal finishing here on UA-cam and just from the school of hard knocks 😂. I appreciate you sharing some of what Ken taught you! The biggest thing I would like to add and it’s probably contradictory to what Ken and Wray teach is using water to cool the panel down. I prefer to let the panel cool down naturally with no help. It can harden the material you’re working with, and can cause uneven shrinkage which you touched on. Now, I generally use way more heat than you showed, but I’m fixing stuff that got beat up by people with anger issues and probably should’ve went to the scrap yard 🤣. And I understand that you waited 10-15 seconds before quenching and that helps tremendously to keep it from hardening, but I don’t recall if you mentioned hardening.

thanks for this. needed all the tips and advice.

Do you know what the Nutralizer is that metal works used after acid dipping? We have a place neer by. But id like to ask what they use.

So what happend if you sand blast both side of the fender or a piece of sheet metal ?

Stripped paint off my 89 Toronado, preparing for epoxy primer and paint. This is most helpful. The grit recommendations prior to priming is just all over the place. I chose middle ground, 120, so I'd be interested in your thoughts on that. I used the purple strip disc on my side grinder for removal, and it worked awesome.

Great channel learning a lot as work thru my 68 caddy rag

Great video, thanks. Warm filler on a cold panel won't cause dew. Dew is water vapor condensing on a cold surface that is below the air temp/humidity/pressure dew-point from the air. But im with your method - don't put a sponge against your bare metal, seal it up.

Can you put raptor bedliner inside the floor panels of a Chevelle I was think of sanding some superficial rust of the floor panels then put etching primer and over that raptor bedliner and the sound mats once the bedliner cures ?

So I see that simple. So you fond need to apply a heat gun to dry out any moisture?

Just simply brilliant. Without doubt the best well presented and intelligent explanation I ever seen or heard. Greeting from the UK.

I so appreciate these tremendous videos. I am at the stage of stripping paint and going back to final finish so this is exactly what I need to see. I don't want to spend all the money and labor only to find out I should have done it differently.

thank you for another great video , have you ever used ospho ? it's a rust converter , comes pre diluted and does not need to be washed off neutralized, it turns rust black and be are metal white , need to sand prior to paint or primer. just curious what your thoughts are on it

“Zen and the Art of Metalworking” Very detailed and you do a great job of promoting patience. I have a project car that has been blasted years ago and epoxy primed. It sat at locations before I bought it with stuff stacked on it and the metal for sure has some oil/grease residue in/on the metal panels/hood /trunk etc. You really stress removing ALL rust pits or it will come back. The car does have new panels as well. Areas not replaced are the roof, doors, hood, trunk and taillight section. How would you attack this situation? What steps and procedures/products would you use? Degrease? DA sand with 80? Rust/metal conditioner? Rust Mort? I don’t think blasting would be a good idea cause it would impregnate contaminates into the metal. A stripping disc would rub/polish stuff into the metal. I won’t know for sure I removed all the rust from sitting years. Would you recommend using rust conditioner over the entire panels then use a converter for added insurance? Eastwood sells an encapsulator. Would you cover the blasted areas from the past with encapsulator and just seal any lingering rust in? I really don’t want to go through all this work for nothing and I can’t afford or want to dip the car. Do you have a Facebook page to share project pictures and discussion? Thanks in advance for your advice.

Great video on prep. I'm one of those who epoxy primes the metal, then does everything over the top of my epoxy primer. I have a question, how do you address rust prevention at panels that are spot welded together? I've tried well through primers, epoxy primer then scratched where the weld will be and I still occasionally get small spot of rust starting between two panel surfaces. Any recommendations on how to prevent issues in those areas? Thanks. Mike

Absolutely the most educational video that I have ever seen. Ever.

What about evaporust after stripping

Awesome Video Travis.

Thanks for sharing. Truly. This can save someone hours, potentially years of headache and frustration.

Do you scuff the epoxy before applying filler over it? If yes, what grit?

I am yet to find someone who explains the process to the detail like you do! I've learned immensely from a bunch of your videos about the whole process of car restauration. I'm doing a project of my own, a 1996 Nissan Patrol and I'm tackling all the steps from welding, metalwork, rust removal and repaint. So far everything has been working spot on with your tips and tricks. Greetings from Croatia.🤘

I do custom paint on motorcycles, I have always done a metal treatment first, then sand with 80 grit. I use DP50LF. PPG epoxy. I go through and gidecoat block and work the low areas with a polyester filler and re'epoxy prime. Then prep for paint.

I appreciate how thorough you explain the steps No-nonsense

Great video! Thanks for making a video for step one. How do you prep the interior panels if you’re not blasting? When it gets really tight are you using scotchbrite? Do you use a rust converter (POR)?

Great vid. I'm just at the stage of looking for effective way to get rid of paint and rust from the cab of my truck and came across Your channel. Have You ever thought about removing paint by burning it in the oven(pyrolysis) and then rust removal dip?

Love this channel!!!

I see you claiming that the weld penitrated all the way through in the comments. I'd really like to see a cuttaway of these welds to show us all the important part of the weld. And for the record, I'm not criticized your work at all. It looks amazing. However you are using techniques that welders have been told not to do, especially with short circuit mig. I've seen many cutaways of all sorts of short circuit mig welds and didn't see much penitration on any of them. It's the nature of the weld process. The only time I've seen deap penitration was when in globular or spray transfer. You'll never get a stack of dimes look with either of those methods but the welds are really good. So for the sake of education would you mind doing a cutaway so we can all see the effectiveness of your techniques? I'd appreciate it because I've seen this stack of dimes technique get hammered by a bunch of know it alls in other vidoes and in comments sections. Proof is in the cutaway.

Well explained video, my question is when using the acid does the entire panel need to be bare metal before using it?

Can I use a product like eastwwods fast etch for small rust pitts, DA over it and clean without problems?

I gotta Frbeightliner truck. How would you sand off the paint around hundreds of huck rivets. Thanks. The panels are alloy. It was sand blasted years ago and the blaster did a shit job and couldn't remove all the paint and now the surface is uneven so I need to remove the paint especially around the rivets which is going to take forever.

Do You know what acid the "conditioner" is? Widely used in shipyards and metal fabrication, World wide.